The links were in the last post but I put them here again: The first set of instructions I’d found on Will Kemp’s blog in reply to him and the ones I found later on Golden’s site on a page about testing surfaces in general.
Above is the scanned pieces of tape, right click > open image in new tab, to see them in full size.
The adhesion test video is in the next post.
This was the chart I kept for the drying tests. Temperatures were around 12 C for those days like I mentioned in the video. Probably around 20 C inside, maybe less (heater is off at night).
Regarding the “watercolors” I know I called them a watercolor substitute, but it’s more like they’ve substituted watercolors for me specifically because they’re slower drying, portable, and won’t crack. But they’re more like something between gouache and oils and yet they have a distinct sticky feel (like warm honey). They’re more opaque then watercolors, but they stay wet longer, and yet they have that tendency to stay in that sticky watercolor stage on paper. My mix is about 1:1, more and they flow too much, less and they’d dry in the box because it’s not airtight (if the box were airtight I could use less).
I also like them because I can paint at the consistency they’re at without accidently over diluting them with water like I usually do watercolors. For example, for a sky, I’ll outline the object, then I’ll go back on the paper and spread the color around with a water-brush there.
One thing I forgot to mention is that you should use professional grade acrylics for them if you want them to keep their opacity. Additionally if you like gouache you can mix in a bit of titanium white with all your colors to make the even more opaque.
I will do a video with them in the future.
Sorry for the lateness I had a lot of trouble uploading because it was so long. There might be some audio gap/jumps because I had to split the video into parts to upload and the youtube editor is horrible for stitching them back together.
Springy Sketching Pen (Coming Soon)
Torso Tutorial (Planned)
As I mentioned in the video I ended up using the painting to test some glazing techniques. You can see it’s been divided into three sections. These were all done after the painting as touch dry. From left to right, my notes were as follows. Not the most precise, but they were meant as more of a starting point.
- One part titanium white to 3-4 parts liquin. Can be wiped nearly clean (compared to 3). Canvas texture smoother (compared to 3)
- A bit of titanium white, couple drops of turps, and a bit of liquin, mixed to kind of a milky consistency. Tends to really sink into the canvas but smoothes fine with a brush, and ended up with the least texture. Can be wiped nearly clean (compared to 3).
- Pure titanium white. Doing it with just a brush was impossible (might be possible with zinc white) so I used my thumb and that also helped reduce the canvas texture. And afterwards I wiped away the excess paint with a rag but it’s hard to wipe away completely.
To avoid using turps I think the best solution would be to just prime and sand the canvas smooth so that paint doesn’t get stuck in the canvas texture. With that even pure titanium white could probably be laid very thinly.
Previous: Experimenting with Limited Palettes
The pencils I use are Lyra ArtDesign if you’re interested. I found them the smoothest of the ones I tried.
The eraser pencil is from Faber-Castel but to be honest if other brands exist I’d try those instead. I find the Faber-Castel one a bit too harsh and yet not hard enough to really keep a sharp tip. It feels and looks similar to a pink school eraser. I’ve not had mine stain that I can remember but there have been reviews complaining about that.
How to Draw Perfect Squares in 1 & 2 Point Perspective
Please note that this method is accurate so far as I’ve been able to compare it with 3d models, and also this was one of the methods used in a book I was reading, but as cover in the next video below there’s something off about using this to construct perfect cubes so I’m not sure if there might be some minor error or there’s something I’m not taking into consideration when constructing perfect cubes.
How to Draw Perfect Cubes in 2 Point Perspective
How to Rotate Objects in Perspective
Patreons can get access to the 3d models I made and the PSD for the animation here.
If you have any questions or there’s something else you have trouble with concerning perspective leave me a comment and I’ll try and help.
Okay it seems I won’t be able to do daily drawings. It’s too much work editing and uploading. By Friday I felt so horrible I was practically useless all day and that kind of reverberated through the weekend. I can draw daily, it’s just the rest that kills me. So I’m thinking of like doing a weekly progress thing or every few days post whatever I’ve been working on like here.
This took 2-3 days and 3 hours total.