Tag: woodworking

Better Table Saw Push Stick from Scrap Wood

You can also find this post as an instructable.instructable.

I’ve also submitted this instructable to the Leftovers Challenge contest over there, so please vote for it if you like it.


I hate the basic push stick that comes with our table saw. It’s uncomfortable for nearly everything but especially for smaller cuts. I was doing a project that needed long (60cm) cuts as tiny as 1cm and I was going to chop of my fingers off if I attempted it with the included push stick. So in the moment I improvised and made myself a better push stick or as I like to call it, my helper hand, out of a scrap piece of wood. I’m sure there are better push sticks you can buy and I could come up with a few other designs, but this was about a fast, cheap, single material solution, plus you can put some of those scrap pieces of wood from larger projects to good use and you don’t have to worry about accidentally cutting the stick.

The one in my right hand in the photo was the “prototype” I made in the moment out of a failed attempt at some fingers (hence the angle + grooves). I managed to make all my cuts with just that one and the white scrap piece to hold the wood down (so the reverse positions from above), but if I had made two it would have been even easier, I just didn’t have the time. So in this tutorial I’ll be finishing the second one, and making it a bit neater. It’ll get some cuts in it eventually, but the main surfaces on my first one where a bit uneven. Plus there’s less random cuts to ignore.

Skip down to see some examples.

Materials

Wood – You’ll need a piece about the size of your hand and at least 2cm thick. I’m using a piece of MDF (my dad builds MDF cabinets). He always has relatively large scrap pieces like this one that he has no use for. When you grab it your fingers should be an inch of two from the bottom to make sure even with thicker pieces they don’t reach the blade. And then it should be just slightly longer than your hand when you’re grabbing it.

Instructions

Step 1: Marking and Cutting

Starting Block

Starting Block Sections

My piece already had some earlier cuts so I cut away as many as possible. I couldn’t get rid of those two cuts, ignore them. To better illustrate everything I’ve numbered and color coded the actual cuts. I’ve tried two ways of doing this. I think this one is better because it’s smoother. I’ll let you battle it out with your saw if you want to do it different. See the second image for my measurements. This is for a 2cm piece with an outer L 1cm thick, sturdy but not too thick. The small white part will be cut away and the scribbled parts are the areas that will only be cut part way through.

When I say raise the saw high it’s better but not necessary if you raise the saw as high as it will go. This is dangerous. Be extra careful if you do. Regardless you’ll still need it to be pretty high (I think around 2cm higher than the piece at least) otherwise you’ll cut too much.

Edit: I’ve redone the pictures and some of the instructions. Hopefully it’s clearer now.

Cut 1 & 2 (Green & Yellow)

Cut 1

For cut #1 (yellow) raise the saw high and cut until you reach mark #2 (yellow).

Cut 2

With cut #2, hold down the piece as shown so it doesn’t fly anywhere. Cut until it snaps inwards.

Cut 2 Back

You’ll notice in the back, even with the saw raised, you’ll inevitably cut more than you need depending on how high you raise the saw. There’s ways to avoid this if this were a project where presentation was important, but it isn’t, and later you won’t be able to avoid this. Just ignore them.

Step 3: Cut 3 (Orange)

This cut would get cut away with time as you did thinner and thinner cuts, but I cut it anyway.

Set the saw to just slightly less than half the piece (~1cm). It’s better to cut too little than too much.

You can start from the outside with the [width of piece – saw width] then move inwards or do what I did and cut outwards.

Cut 3a

I set the guide to [width of piece – (1cm + saw width)] and made the cut like you see in 3a then moved the guide, made a cut, moved the guide, made a cut and so on adding the width of the saw each time and cut outwards until the section was gone (3b).

Cut 3b

Cut 4 (Red)

Now we’re going to cut the other L.

Keep the saw at ~1cm.

Cut 4a

Copy the 2cm mark in red to the other side. We’ll be cutting with the “back” up. Now cut perpendicular to it until the highest point of the saw reaches the mark.

Cut 4b

Do the same with 4b. You won’t need to mark it because you’ll already have the previous cut to guide you.

When you flip it back around it should look like the second image below. It doesn’t matter that the cut went through to the edge.

Cut 4c

Now to cut that last part off, what I did as you can see in 4c is with one hand I held the piece at about the right height and then with the guide set at 1cm cut in until that scribbled piece fell off. The first time I did this like I did cut #3 but what happens is that since you can’t cut into the little L bit sticking out you have to stop the saw way earlier and then you’d have to cut away at the remaining wood by hand. I managed, but the result was not very smooth. This method although a bit odd is better.

And you’re done!

See the next step for different ways to use them. Ideally you should make two, but you can make do with one and a block or at least one and one with and just the first two cuts.

Use Examples

Here’s some photos of me using them. They’ve completely replaced the push stick that came with the saw for me and it’s also really helped to just have something square on hand when cutting thin pieces where I either can’t put the miter guide where I need it, or it’s too far away. Plus since they’re made out of scraps there’s no hesitation about cutting into them. I can press a piece down over the saw and basically use them as an extension of my hands, greatly reducing any danger when doing otherwise dangerous or awkward cuts.

Pictures From / Used in the following Instructables/Posts

Spider Web Pencil/Tool Holder (Coming Soon)

Drawers that Open to an Angle (Coming SoonTM)

Varnished Chest

I’ve been busy with a big project so in the meantime, here’s the chest again. I finally varnished it with a polyurethane matt (or semi-gloss?) varnish. I thinned it down and gave it two coats. It came out really nice except for in a few places there was extra glue I hadn’t seen and wiped off so the varnish looks white there. You can’t really tell, but it’s something I’m keeping in mind for my next project and others that require a lot of glue.

Before/After
Before/After

Wooden Chest

Cutting the Boards

No matter how much you plan ahead, there’s going to be some discrepancies so I wouldn’t advice measuring, mark, and cut ALL the pieces at once. Before I cut I took some time to think it out first. I marked boards I was sure I needed cut. I also laid them out when possible to check they fit properly. With recycled wood this can be quite the problem because the boards are often curved to one side or have one face better than another. The extent you can take this planning is usually 12 or 34 of the building order. The rest I tentatively marked just to make effective use of the wood.

I’ll be mentioning my measurements to help keep track and for my records, but most of them should just be ignored.

The Bottom

First I did the bottom 7 boards. They defined the bottom area of the chest (just more in reality). I chose their 65 cm length. But then the width needed to be measured. I settled on 28.5 cm, as the side were just slightly different. Now for the bottom I laid out the boards like this because it provides more strength. So I cut the 2 short outer boards at 28,5cm. Instead of using the confusing long/short terminology I used in my notes I’m going to use outer to mean boards that reach the end, and inner to mean boards that don’t.

Bottom Side Dimensions

Now the long inner boards depend on these two 28.5cm boards. So it’s 65cm – x, x being the width of the two short outer boards (not just multiplying one, but adding both and at both ends). For me that came out to 56.9cm (in this case the same, but for the sides some where a few millimeters off).

The Sides

I had already check that all the side’s heights would be pretty close. So I went ahead and cut the 65 cm boards for the front and back. The shorter sides depended on that first 28,5 cm measurement and the thickness of the front & back boards which thankfully didn’t vary much. I got 26.5 cm.

Next came the borders. I laid out all the sides side by side (there’s a tongue twister) and then decided on a height that would look good on them all. There was a bit of room for error, because unlike the bottom, I wanted all the other sides to have long outer border boards and short inner ones just because I thought it looked better.

Side Dimensions

I decided on 32cm in total. So this would be the height of the box. Note that you have to factor in the thickness of the bottom of the chest. This was so that instead of having to use 8 boards for the sides, I could use 7 because and between the thickness provided by the bottom boards and the space left for the lid they fit in just fine and I thought I was short for wood at the time.

Top Lid - Inside

But I couldn’t cut those short inner border boards just yet. First I had to cut the long outer boards. For the front and back these were 65 cm + 2x, x being the thickness of the boards. This gave me 67.3 cm. For the left/right sides this was just 28.5 cm like the bottom outer short border.

Corners

Here you can get an idea of how the corners fit.

Now I could lay out all the borders and measure the short inner boards individually so that in total all the sides heights add up to 32 cm. They ended up 23-24 cm as shown in the first picture.

The Lid

I cut the final 7 boards for the top at 65 cm. The long outer borders at 67.3 cm. I left the short inner boards for after I put the chest together just to get a perfect fit. They ended up around 22.8 cm.

Putting it all Together

I used 9×20 (they’re in mm here) nails. Just short enough that they wouldn’t go through two boards.

The Bottom

To have zero nails visible on the outside, this is how I put them in on the bottom, with only slight variations of the method for the sides. Blue mean the nails are going in from the inside of the chest. Yellow means going in from the outside, they hold onto the sides. Then the orange ones are for just holding the boards to the bottom border, that’s why there’s fewer of them.

Nails 1

I kind of did these all at once. There was lots of camping, gluing and ungluing. I thought building it would be easier so I hadn’t thought it out as much. But even now looking back, to make the nails invisible like this I would have had to unglue one part at least once, and not using glue was impossible because the pieces would move around everywhere when I hammered them.

The photo was taken a few steps later. In reality this first part just consisted of the bottom border, the bottom boards, and the bottom board for all the sides.

The Left/Right Sides

These have to be done first to be able to connect them to the front/back sides properly at the edges. First I glued the side boards to their respective borders, I started by putting up the bottom vertically and on the respective side because as you’ll remember I already attached the last board of all the sides. With some odd maneuvering, I nailed all the boards to the short inner borders. Here the blue are nails going from the inside to the short inner border boards of the outside and the green are going from the inside to the outside as well but connecting the long outer border.

Nails 2

The Front/Back Sides

I messed up here as well. It would have been easier to first nail all 7 boards to the left/right sides with the nails indicated in yellow (going from the outside in) then attached the border with the nails indicated in blue and green (going from the inside to the outside).

Nails 3

Nails 4

The Top Border Boards

I left these for last because it was very hard to properly attach the bottom borders all level. That meant some of the short inner borders that to be sanded until all the top border pieces were level.

The Top

I finally double checked the short inner sides and cut them. Next I loosely glued the border together. When the glue had set I glued the seven boards to it. As it set I turned the box over and checked that the lid would fit. I left it all like that with the box on top until the glue had dried. Once it was dry I nailed all the boards to the border and it was done.

The Finished Chest

Finished Closed

I haven’t applied varnish to it yet. I decided to just put it to use anyways because something came up and it might be a while before I can buy the varnish. I’m also unsure about whether I want hinges or if they’re even that possible given how I made it.

Finished Open

One’s man trash is another man’s trash.

And here’s all the junk I put in it. It’s mostly just odd plastic parts/boxes/cases that are too big to fit anywhere else. For years I kept all this in like a huge paper bag I had. Then after a move three years ago they’ve been in two annoying cardboard boxes ever sense. I would have kept them there except it’s not so much that stuff is piled on top of each other and hard to get out (that’s always going to happen) but longer tubes and stuff didn’t fit and the smaller the space, the harder it is to use the space efficiently.

Tripod Easel

Converting a Camera Tripod into an Easel

I’m poor and cheap so there’s no way I would ever spend money on an art easel. I might make one someday, but I’ve never actually worked on one. I was just curious as to the experience, so yet another reason to not spend a bunch of money on something I might never use again.

Plus I have an easel looking thing, what other reason do I need to mess with my tripod?

Perhaps I shouldn’t say that. No tripods were harmed in this process.

Now this won’t work with all tripods. It depends on how the mount works, but the basic idea should work for most. I was about to try to find a hex nut at the right size (it seems to be 12”-20 for DSLRs but don’t quote me on that), but this was just easier. Here’s what my mount looks like btw:

So basically all I had to do was cut a piece of wood at the proper angle. I measured the tripod’s mount first to get the dimensions of the triangle at the sides, then because although I still have SohCahToa stuck in my head, I don’t like to think so I just plugged in the two measurements and a 90 degree angle into the triangle calculator. I got around 63°. That meant I had to put the saw at a 27° angle.

The piece of MDF I found laying around to use was slightly taller than the mount. This doesn’t really matter. It just makes it a bit harder to determine the proper size. So I started with a slightly bigger cut then kept cutting until I got the right size +/- 2mm. Be careful with your fingers, the piece is very small!

I could probably have mathed out the distance between the sides better, but this took less time. Once I got two opposite side fitting about right. I could also just use that for the other because my mount happens to be perfectly square. I technically didn’t need to angle all the sides. The mount’s sides are all angles so you can change the way you orient the camera (when you flip it 90°), but there’s only one angled side on the actual tripod and then the little latch that hooks in is angled as well. But well I did it anyways just in case.

After all the angles where cut as close as possible I trimmed the edges with a razor plade to make it fit. If you don’t have a saw you can probably get away with doing this entire part with a handsaw or a razor blade. MDF is quite easy to cut although it feathers a bit, but for this it doesn’t matter.

Then for the part that actually holds the canvas/board+paper, I didn’t want to do anything too complex because I don’t know how much I’ll like it yet. I got the same piece of MDF that was lying around and cut it into three pieces. 2 x 2cm, and a long piece around 30cm which was left over. Then I just glued everything together. I don’t work on particularly large or heavy panels so I’m not too worried about it falling apart. If it does a few nails should hold it together. Also I’m a bit unsure just how big the gap should be, so if it’s too small/big I can just tear it apart and change the size real quick.

Easel Attachment - Ledge
Easel Attachment – Ledge

And here are some pictures of the finished easel mount on my tripod.It’s a rough proof of concept. If I like it I’ll probably make a nicer one later.

The white board is just a thin piece of MDF I use as a smooth drawing surface for paper drawing/watercolors.

Other Updates

  • Can’t afford the varnish for the chest at the moment, but I’ll probably just go ahead and do the post on it because I need to use it.

My Ideas for the Blog and Current Projects

I’ve moved rooms which means I’ll be organizing and redoing furniture, etc, and I thought it was the perfect way to start the blog. I’ve tried several times, unsuccessfully, to keep some sort of blog or social media account, but I never quite got the hang of it. I also didn’t have enough energy at the time to keep up with one because of some medical issues, but lately I’ve improved and wanted to start up again.

I also started keeping a sort of log notebook. Keeping a journal never did it for me, but sometimes it’s hard to do something just because (e.g. sketches just for practice that will never be seen) and then have nothing to show for it. It created the strange illusion that even though I was feeling better, I hadn’t gotten anything done, when in fact I just went through a series of “invisible” (e.g. learning how to program, etc.) and/or failed projects. So I dug out this old Moleskine I’d never truly found a use. For years I couldn’t get myself to use it. I finally decided to hell with it and started using it almost a year ago to record ideas when I went out, but it’s sat mostly unfilled. But anyways I took it and just started to write down everything I did each day. It’s been two months, which is dozens of times longer than I’ve managed to stay with any other sort of journal like thing, and it’s evolved quite nicely. I’ve added a small to-do list in the back and there’s a series of symbols so I can also write down notes, ideas, and supply places/prices. The last one might sound kind of strange, but it serves two purposes. First, where I live there’s super high inflation and it’s very hard to find art related supplies. Just in the time I’ve started using the thing for notes which is less than a year, there’s evidence in there of colored pencil prices doubling. Second, some of the names for materials/tools are very different, they might go by the technical name, by a brand specific to my country, or the translation might just seem illogical to me, and in a lot of places, everything is behind the counter, something which I wasn’t used to, so you have to know what to ask for.

Point is I want to do something similar with the blog, hence the name, and then at most set up a youtube to post some videos to accompany it (maybe some tutorials, I used to do those, but they’re a pain to record and edit). Unlike my personal-everything-goes log though, it will be more focused, so to speak. I can’t believe I didn’t make the connection earlier, but I realized maybe I should approach blogging in the same way I realized years ago I should approach my writing (novels): imagining my audience as being the reader side of me, like the alternate universe version of me that was never a writer (it can’t be just me me or there’d be very little criteria for what to keep/cut since I would enjoy the story regardless), and that’s it. No feedback unless I’m nearly finished or I’m really stuck. No leaving things in or cutting things out because I feel x person might like it more/less.

It really helped with pinning down what I wanted with my writing so I thought why not do the same with my blog? I’ll only post mostly-finished or need-to-be-finished things, the sort of things I like to read about, and write and share them the way I like to see them shared. My RSS feed of art/diy blogs is huge and the more detail oriented the better. I love medium length articles. In this day and age people tend to want the quick version of things, but I feel trying to satisfy that would be compromising too much. In the end, I’d rather a few readers that actually read and enjoy the same style blogs I do, then hundreds that don’t.

I’m also very much a perfectionist and much like with my writing in the beginning, with blogs and such I had the problem where I’d post WIPs, put them on hold, look back, especially at drawing WIPs, and think they looked awful and so quit on them. On the one hand it can be nice to see your progress (mostly my experience has been to cringe though), but on the other hand sometimes doing stuff that will never get seen and will just get deleted or thrown away at the end takes off any pressure to not fail, and the failing is going to happen, it needs to happen, and it’s much nicer and easier to let go and fail in a controlled environment without pressure. Basically doing it for the sake of doing it and learning to enjoy that process regardless of the outcome really really helps in my case (apart from creating a habit, which is the other half of the equation).

The log helps fix the lack of a good progress record that doing this creates, but I’ve also found there aren’t as many gaps as I expected. Since I’ve been doing more things, there’s a higher output and therefore more things that meet my expectations, and not just that, but when I’m finished I find myself caring less about any mistakes I find later because since I designated the project as practice, the result almost always exceeds my zero expectations.

Later on once I’ve mastered the basics, high attention to detail can really help my works, and that’s probably why I was never too keen to let that side of me go, but usually that’s definitely not the case at the beginning, and it just becomes a fruitless attempt to satisfy the perfectionist in me. I know I can’t possibly expect to do something to my satisfaction on the first try (though it often exceeds others’ expectations which just seems to frustrate me more), but getting my brain to not freak out has always been a problem. And it was never helped by the fact that I’d take on projects I couldn’t possibly hope to master the skills I needed to complete them for months or years to come.

Doing the above has forced me to start with smaller projects. For example, I’d been wanting to get back into 3D modeling again for a while, but I wasn’t sure about what program to go with. I had worked with Autodesk 3Ds Max and Architecture before and was leaning towards Autodesk programs. They have a free 3 year student version that might as well be unlimited given they release a new version every year. I actually did get 3ds Max, but I must have has a better mouse back when I first tried it because I just couldn’t stand the middle mouse for panning and didn’t like the other arrangements it offered. Then of course there’s Blender which is completely free, but I remembered it being horribly confusing and uncomfortable so although that’s where I’ll probably end up in the end, I didn’t want to start with it because I was sure it would crush my returning interest. Then a friend recommended C4D, even let me try it on their computer. It costs and arm and a leg and unfortunately only technically has a 45 day trial (with saving, unlimited without). I should seriously make a chart. But anyways C4D was amazing. way easier to understand than anything I’d ever tried, I could get it much closer to my ideal shortcut layout, and its interface is one of the most intuitive and customizable I’ve ever seen. But I digress, onto my point.

Before, I would have wanted to start with something like a short (at least I knew better than to aim for a movie) or model/rig an entire character in full detail as the first project (I know, insane). I had actually done a realistic 3d head, but that was in Sculptris (free) which had maybe a 1 day learning curve, and even then that took 100+ hours.

So, this time I didn’t even attempt to animate anything or do anything larger than a head in terms of detail. I chose something relatively simple, but that would keep my interest, and that was an Iron Man helmet. Not too detailed, not exact (although that was kind of decided for me when I couldn’t find good orthographic views). Only the mouth piece moves. The back is kind of iffy. I didn’t know and still don’t know how to texture remotely well or do lights. But what I did learn which had until then mystified me, was point modeling (not starting with a shape). I also got really familiar with the modeling tools much quicker than I would have had I attempted something that involved more than modeling, part of that was using C4D, but most of it was choosing something simple to work on. And once I was familiar with which tools I used the most (took about a day) I dedicated some time to tweaking the interface and mapping the shortcuts to my left hand. Something which I found with Photoshop improved my workflow at least 25% for most things, and probably 50% for tasks that involve a lot of switching between tools/panels. I now hardly have any panels open, just a canvas, options bar, and tool bar (because there isn’t another way to keep track of fg/bg colors). I switch between most things with shortcuts. Doing this early on in C4D allowed me to improve even faster after that first day and let me focus on learning 3D modeling techniques.

I delete ALL the default shortcuts by the way, so that in case I forget what’s what, I can just press keys until I get the correct tool without accidentally pressing some obscure commands. It can then take a few weeks/months to truly finalize a layout (and consequently learn a program), editing it when anything gets uncomfortable, but it’s really worth it, even if you’ll just be using a program for a month. You can always save the config even if it’s a trial. I wouldn’t bother if it’s less time, you won’t be using it intensively, you didn’t like the program, or if it’s really really hard to set them (unless you need to use it for a long time), but otherwise it’s really worth it. I’ll make a post about the process when I get around to doing this for Blender.

The helmet took 3-4 days, so about 30 hours of work, with various attempts at each part, not because they weren’t perfect, but more because I realized the way I approached them was wrong. When that happened, I’d just delete and restart. Had it been something else with more similar parts I might have just skipped some, but each part of the mask was an exercise in something completely different (e.g. face needed to have eyes but I needed to keep with the good habit of few triangles, the jaw needed that extruded edge that merged in later, the back needed to be shaped around that circle, and also layered in 3 parts, and then it all needed to fit/seal correctly). If I got tired of the mask, I could have just left it and moved on. Strangely enough I “finished” it. Just a few weeks later I can now see even more things I would have approached differently, but I’ve stopped seeing those things as mistakes or wanting to go back and fix it. For practice, it was great practice and really fun.

Wooden Chest 3D Model
Wooden Chest 3D Model

After that I did a chest.

This is a real wooden chest I’m making btw. My dad got a bunch of old dirty wooden boards (the type that make up roofs) and I’ve been wanting to make a wooden chest for a long time. For any furniture I’ve always preferred to model stuff out instead of doing it on paper. It also offered the perfect chance to learn more about C4D’s awesome system of Mograph tools. (I’m talking about the booles, cloner, array, etc). I was semi-familiar with them, but I’ve now gotten to know all their settings, the best way to go about cloning things, how to combine objects (which had really confused me before), etc. Cloning especially made it really easy to change the size of the chest as needed. I only had a certain number of boards for me and I needed to plan it so I had enough. I couldn’t take the measurements completely from the model only because the boards weren’t perfect and some ended up a few millimeters longer than others when I cut them thinner. I still had to start from the bottom, mark, cut, then make my way up, measuring as I go for certain boards, but the model made it much easier to plan and visualize. There was also the problem at first that even though I cleaned and sanded the boards, some still had some mold stains, but only on one part of the board (less than half), which meant if I planned right, those could all go on the bottom. In the end I planned it so well I had quite a few left over boards so I redid all the moldy ones and left those for a different project. I’m thinking of making a rotational caster (I’m thinking similar to this one) with them, there’s more than enough for one, but not for something like another box.

Used Wooden Boards
Used Wooden Boards

These are the other boards that my dad’s going to be making some sort of bench out of later. This is what mine looked like before. As you can see they were stained on one side (darker than it looks), but both sides needed sanding anyways because even the non-moldy ones were dirty/rough. They were also too wide, and still have those interlocking sides. And then below is how bad the mold looked on most of the bad boards, some were even worse.

Wooden Boards - Mold Growth Example
Wooden Boards – Mold Growth Example

And here are mine after, interlocking edges trimmed, cut in half along their length, sanded on both sides and the edges with 60 grit sandpaper (I didn’t like how the sharp edges looked against each other).

Wooden Boards - Cut and Sanded
Wooden Boards – Cut and Sanded

Below is one of the moldy ones (which I ended up redoing) which I also cleaned with some bleach. You can hardly tell in the picture (ignore the yellow tone btw, it was just in different light) but next to the clean ones or side by side with the rest of the moldy ones it was very obvious. They were okay for doing the bottom which wouldn’t be seen, or as I’m now planning, something like the rotational caster which doesn’t need to be pretty.

Wooden Boards - "Bad" Boards
Wooden Boards – “Bad” Boards

I just finished cutting them all today. Once I put all the pieces together I’ll do a post on it.

Back to 3d modeling. I also tried to do an X-Wing. That one didn’t go well, but only because the orthographic images I found (from the Star Wars Vehicles book) are just ever so slightly off. So I either have to fix them, or even better, draw it up myself from scratch from reference images, so I think I’ll leave it for later since I also want to scratch build it from plastic. I can just make one set of drawings for both those things.

Since I still wanted to practice doing a ship though, I tried coming up with one from scratch instead. I messed around with a few designs. Still haven’t got anything good, but I’m taking the chance to learn how to make materials and mess with the render settings which are really what make a model come to life. The actual modeling part is only half the battle.

In the meantime I set up another reality based model. Like I said in the beginning I’m basically setting up the room I moved to from scratch. I have a desk, a few Andy drawers, and a bookcase, but everything else is in boxes and it’s just a mess. I used to have two desks, the Andy drawers, and one of those giant Ikea things with cubes where I put my collection of things and books. Now most of my things are in the attic. It’s been a while since the move that landed them there because of space issues so I’d really like to display everything again. Best way to test out configurations was a 3D model, so I measured the entire room and modeled it and the basic starting furniture. I got the configuration mostly down, but there’s still some details that I’m not sure about. I got some pretty cool ideas though, design wise. Plus it seems I will be sticking to one desk for various reasons, so I made a bunch of modifications to make better use of the space while keeping it clean and having everything on hand (which are the main problems for me with just having one desk). I think it’s better to wait until they’re finally implemented though, maybe do a video.

So that’s 2 things I “finished” out of 5 in two months which is quite a lot for me, even compared to the times I felt semi-well health wise a few years back. And that’s just the 3d models, it’s not counting other things I’ve been doing that I haven’t mentioned.

Anyways, I’ll try to post on a weekly basis. That’s my goal for now. Next time I might split the post along the week though since I tend to write a lot and my upcoming projects will have more details. Not as in more writing (this was more of an introductory post), but more instructions/pictures. It takes too much space to record how I went about a project on my personal log. Usually I’d save my messy notes to my computer, which are later a pain to decipher, so I might clean those up for the blog and use it as a log in that sense as well. I thought about using instructables which I love, but that would be yet another site to manage. Maybe I’ll write posts there first, we’ll see.